Converting S&W J-Frame Combat Grips to Boot Grips

The abbreviated length of J-frame boot grips makes them ideal for deep concealment and pocket carry. The problem for people with large hands or long fingers is that the backstrap is left uncovered to reduce the size of the grip. This causes a problem in that the trigger reach is short, making the gun harder to shoot.

Editor’s Note: Our article on modiying old-style Taurus Model 85 grips for use on S&W J-frames was a hit with readers, and generated additional interest in grip modifications. When reader Derek Perreault contacted me about his experience modifying some OEM S&W grips, I encouraged him to write it up and share it. I’m glad he took me up on the offer and hope you’ll find this interesting and useful. -Mike

I have long fingers and searched far and wide for a boot grip that would increase trigger reach, without success. I read on the gun forums where people were customizing larger grips by cutting them down to shorter length. This seemed like a good option.

suitable candidate

I remembered that I had a pair of S&W combat grips that I had ordered to try on a S&W Model 60-10. I ended up going with the larger Hogue Monogrip on the Model 60, so the combat grips were relegated to the “grip box.” I thought these grips would be a good option for my grip modification experiment.

S&W Combat Grips, S&W Part Number 413040000. Call S&W Customer Service to order them.

I put the grips on my S&W 642, and they felt much better than the stock boot grips. The backstrap was covered by 3/16’’ of rubber and that small increase in trigger reach made a big difference in the leverage on the trigger. I verified that there was adequate clearance for Safariland Comp I and HKS 36 speed loaders, and I decided to try shortening them.

Shortened S&W Combat Grip on Left, Uncle Mike’s Boot Grip on right. The S&W Combat Grip has a closed back strap that works well for large hands.

The combat and boot grips are roughly the same size and shape except for length. The combat grips are shifted to the aft of the grip frame by 3/16” covering the backstrap.

cuttin’ time

After inspecting the grips, I decided that cutting down the center of the web in the plastic skeleton with a hacksaw was my best option for shortening the grips.

Make the cut down the center of the plastic skeleton, as indicated by the red line.
A steady hand should get adequate cuts by holding the grip panel by hand, inside up, while sawing. I clamped the grip panel to a piece of scrap wood that was secured in the vise for added stability.
Cut each grip panel individually, with the inside of the panel facing up. I’m using a 32 TPI blade to get a smooth cut, here.

After both halves were cut, I screwed them together and ran the cut end along sandpaper layed flat on my workbench to even up the ends and smooth up the cut. I used open coat garnet sandpaper which is less likely to load up with rubber and plastic. I worked progressively using 50, 100, and 150 grit. I finished with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper.

The finished product

success!

The modified combat grips offer improved trigger control, leading to smaller group size on target. I notice little difference in concealability compared to the stock boot grip.

External View–Modified S&W Combat Grip on left, Uncle Mike’s boot grip on right.
Internal View–Modified S&W Combat Grip on left, Uncle Mike’s boot grip on right.
For comparison, the modified S&W Combat Grip is shown over the top of the Uncle Mike’s Boot Grip. The modified grip sits further aft and is scooped out higher behind the trigger guard. The extra room behind the trigger guard allows me two-and-a-half fingers on the grip. The Uncle Mike’s Boot Grips only allowed for two fingers on the grip.

Even better

I mentioned earlier that the combat grips have adequate clearance for speed loaders. It’s not perfect, but it works. When I was looking at the larger speed loader cut on the Hogue Monogrip, I realized I could cut away some rubber on the S&W combat grips and get more clearance for speed loaders. I used a single edge razor blade to cut the rubber. It worked really well, and now my speedloaders work without interference. I highly recommend this modification.

Inside View: Cut the grip along this line, just shy of the plastic skeleton, underneath
This view shows the removed material from the OEM speedloader cut
Final product looks clean, works great

6 thoughts on “Converting S&W J-Frame Combat Grips to Boot Grips”

  1. When something doesn’t work right, and if you have the skills and the tools, carefully modify it until it does. Thanks for showing us the way.

  2. Excellent post! Kudos to the author for documenting his process and rationale. Very nice photographs too!

    Thanks to RevolverGuy for making this tutorial available.

  3. Excellent job Sir, of making them yours.

    Well illustrated and a detailed description of the process you followed.

    1. Thanks for the kind words Tony. I am glad that Mike encouraged me to write the article. It was a fun project.

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