Choosing Defensive Carry Ammunition

Choosing Defensive Carry Ammunition

I know I’m not the first person to write about selecting duty or carry ammunition. In all honesty, this probably isn’t the first article this week on the topic. However, when I wrote about filing my front sight a couple of weeks ago, I mentioned that this was an important step. Before I get too far down the road from that article, I want to address my criteria for choosing defensive carry ammunition, and how I settled on the .357 Short Barrel Gold Dot.

Internal & External Ballistic Factors

There are important factors around how the ammunition interacts with the gun. Some of these factors are extremely important while others are less so.

Ignition reliability: The top three factors for ammunition selection are: reliability, reliability, and reliability! Knowing that your  rounds are all going to fire is of paramount importance.  I’ve shot some “tuned” revolvers that have difficulty with certain ammunition. My 640 Pro with Apex spring kit has had a light strike with Winchester PDX1, a cartridge I’d otherwise be perfectly satisfied to carry. Unreliability is a deal-breaker, though.

I don’t mean to imply that unreliable ignition is a common problem. The vast majority of ammunition will function perfectly well in the vast majority of guns. But, as you are shooting the ammo to assess the other factors listed here, ignition reliability should be in your awareness.

Recoil and control: I believe this is the second most important factor. You must be able to shoot the gun accurately and quickly. Excessive recoil slows recoil recovery, which slows successive shots. Each of us has to find that intersection of power and control. I wrote about this at some length a few weeks ago.

Accuracy: This seems to be overlooked occasionally with handguns.  Regardless, the accuracy of a given load should be a factor when choosing defensive carry ammunition. If your handgun’s sights are non-adjustable (as is the case with most handguns) you should select a load that shoots as close as possible to point-of-aim. You should also favor loads that group consistently well in your gun.

Case Extraction: This is important if you have to reload, and a problem that is somewhat specific to revolvers. Some rounds operate at pressures that cause the cases to expand. This can lead to sticky extraction which is a more pronounced problem in guns lacking full-length ejector rods. I want those cases to come out when I work the ejector. Note that this is a secondary factor to reliability, accuracy, and the ability control recoil. The rounds in the cylinder are much more important than the ones in your speedloader.

Cleanliness: Ammunition designed for longer barrels can leave a lot of residue and unburned powder behind when fired in guns with shorter barrels. Now, I’m not the guy that carries a squeaky clean revolver, but – unburned powder and find its way under the extractor star. This can prevent the cylinder from closing and bind up the gun. Of course all ammo will be a little dirty, but if it is extremely dirty you might consider moving on for the sake of reliability.

Muzzle flash: This is a very minor factor, but perhaps deserves some consideration. Most modern defensive ammunition utilizes “flash suppressed” powders. If you have the opportunity to safely fire a couple of rounds of your top candidates in darkness, it’s probably not a bad idea. Unless it is absolutely blinding, I wouldn’t rule out an otherwise suitable candidate because of muzzle flash.

Terminal Ballistic Factors

I’m not going to beat up on this category. Plenty of others have written about bullet performance, and have given a better account of the situation that I could begin to. I will summarize the key points, however. It is difficult and expensive to perform these tests on your own. In selecting my own defensive carry ammunition I am generally relying on the results of the Lucky Gunner .38/.357 tests.

Penetration: In the absence of another meaningful standard, I default to the FBI standard for penetration. The Standard (big “T”, big “S”) dictates penetration between 12 and 18 inches. The infamous 1986 Miami Shootout was the provenance of this dictate. I am happy with anything that consistently penetrates to these prescribed depths, though I wouldn’t automatically rule out anything that is slightly (let’s say an inch or two) under or over.

Expansion: With modern bullet technology there is little reason to select a bullet that doesn’t expand at all. The prevailing wisdom these days seems to be that a bullet should expand to about 150% of its original diameter (for a .38/.357 this would be an expanded diameter of .535 or greater). I consider this a rule of thumb. I will accept a little less expansion in exchange for reliable, consistent, predictable expansion at the velocities generated in my gun. It is important to note that expansion should occur after interaction with layers of heavy clothing, and test results should reflect this.

Choosing Defensive Carry Ammunition

An important note in regards to expansion: barrel length influences velocity, and velocity influences expansion. Too little velocity and the bullet doesn’t expand (and very likely way over-penetrates). Too much velocity and the bullet can (potentially) over-expand or fragment. You should look for gel tests that have occurred with a barrel length similar to your gun’s. The Lucky Gunner test was pretty unique in that it included tests for both 2″ and 4″ guns. As LG also demonstrated, velocities between two- and four-inch barrels can be significantly different.

Weight Retention: One other factor to consider here, and one that is far less prevalent today than in yesteryear, is weight retention. It is undesirable for the bullet to fragment as this is not conducive to effective penetration. I am looking for something in the neighborhood of 99 to 100% weight retention.

Mechanical Factors

There are couple of mechanical concerns, the first two of which deal more with reloading the revolver than anything else. I’ve mentioned them before but they are worth hauling out again here.

Bullet Shape: Bullet shape becomes a big factor when we talk about reloading the revolver from a speedloader. Some shapes are much harder to get into the chambers than others. For example, I’d hate to have to put the new Federal .38 HSTs in a speedloader. Loading them would require a near perfect alignment with the charge holes. Some bullets might seem like a great shape but turn out not to be in practice. For example I recently tried out the Hornady Critical Duty loads. They are very pointy, but the rubber plug on the tip of the round is very grippy. I found that unless I nail the reload and hit all six cylinders perfectly this slowed my reloads down a lot.

Case Construction: I’ve mentioned this before but I greatly prefer cases that are nickel-plated over plain brass. These tend to avoid corrosion and remain nice and slick, allowing them to slip into chambers more easily. Nickel-plating also aids in case extraction.

Waterproofing: If you stamp the word “waterproof” on anything, it will catch the eye of this old jarhead. Unfortunately, I’ve yet to see that word appear on a box of ammo. Instead I look for primer sealant on the case. This is usually pretty easy to see if it’s present. Speer, for instance, uses a blue primer sealant. It’s harder to tell if a case-mouth sealant is used. In reality this is a tertiary concern for me, but it might be a bigger concern for you if you live in hot, humid environments, work outdoors, or spend a great deal of time in and around water. If this is a huge concern for you, you may have to devise your own test for ascertaining whether or not your cartridges are waterproof.

Choosing Defensive Carry Ammunition

Practical (read: Boring) Factors

So, all of that was the sexy, fun stuff. But there are a few prosaic considerations to think about here. I don’t see these written about very often, but they are definitely worth some thought.

Cost: How expensive is the ammunition? I know, I know – how much is your life worth? If one box of ammunition is all you needed this might be a fair statement. But I contend you probably need a little bit more than a box or two. You need to verify reliability. You need to test accuracy. You need a few “extra” rounds. You need to rotate those rounds out occasionally. I don’t think you need to shoot 200 rounds before you deem your ammo “good to go” but you should have more than a 20-round box.

There is decent expanding ammunition that doesn’t cost a fortune. A good example is the .357 Remington Golden Saber. At around $300/case of 500 this is less than half of what you would spend on a similar quantity of super high-end, premium ammo, and it performs well.

Choosing Defensive Carry Ammunition

Availability: Finding a certain brand, caliber, and bullet weight in the premium defensive ammunition lines can be notoriously difficult. Some gun shops carry certain things, and others don’t. The internet has alleviated this somewhat, but certain rounds can still be hard to find. This is one of those practical things that may drive your decision somewhat.

Long-term Availability: Though I tend to stock up on ammunition, I like to have a reasonable degree of certainty that my preferred load will be around for a while. For this reason I strongly favor ammunition from established manufacturers. There’s nothing wrong with upstart and boutique companies – even upstart ammo companies. I like to support them when I can, but I’m not going to adopt a carry load from them. When choosing my defensive carry ammunition I’ll go with a company that has been around a long time, and has a well respected product line that has seen decent adoption by law enforcement.


There are some factors that should give you pause when choosing defensive carry ammunition. The firearms and ammunition industries are not immune to gimmick products. There are some contraindications that will make me second guess a particular load or brand. The questions I’m going ask are:

Is this a new round that is making all sorts of fantastic claims about “extreme” this or that, or some newly discovered bullet technology? I’m content to leave “multiple wound channels” and “extreme penetration” to shotguns and rifles, respectively. Do the cartridges come in blister packs? That’s a bad sign. Are the cartridges designed to either, a. not expand and provide penetration that can be measured in feet instead of inches, b. provide radical expansion at the expense of penetration, or c. fragment and not retain weight? If the answers to any of the above are “yes”, I’ll pass. Is the ammunition way more expensive than premium ammunition from more established manufacturers? That’s a practical factor I can’t ignore regardless of how “great” this new bullet is.

Choosing Defensive Carry Ammunition: Putting It Together

So these are all a bunch or seemingly disconnected factors, but putting this together isn’t all that hard. I’m going to start with some bullet performance data from trusted sources since this is the stuff I am not going to try to do myself. There are tons of online resources out there that document bullet performance. I am a fan of the Lucky Gunner’s test. I was also fortunate enough to help out with that test, firing a few of those shots and digging a lot of those bullets out of the blocks, so I tend to lean that way. If my bias puts you off, a little poking around on Google and YouTube will yield plenty of other results.

After I’ve narrowed down the candidates based on what I believe to be adequate penetration, expansion, and weight retention, I’m going to see what I can find. Online shopping makes it easier to find what you’re looking for, but certain rounds (the Winchester Ranger line comes to mind) can still be hard to find. Once I’ve found what I’m looking for, I’ll assess its availability, both in the short and long terms. If it looks like something I’ll be able to lay in a decent supply of, and still be able to buy a couple years from now, I’ll buy a couple boxes and move on to the next step.

The next step involves shooting some of the ammo. There are a couple of sub-phases to this. The first portion will be spent running the gun pretty hard and checking a few things. Can I control the recoil over multiple shots? Are the cartridges hard to get into the cylinders during reloads? During each reload I’m also going to be cognizant of extraction – do the cartridges all come out fairly easily?

The next portion is some slow-fire and possibly even rested fire. This is to determine the accuracy in my gun, – i.e. does it shoot point-of-aim (or close to it) and does it hold an acceptable group? Throughout both of these phases I’m aware of the other factors. Is it reliable? A single light-strike is enough to turn me off to an entire line of ammunition – in THAT gun. Is it overly dirty? If I have the opportunity, I’ll fire a cylinder or two in low light to assess the muzzle flash, but as previously stated this is a tertiary consideration for me at most.

The Bottom Line

Do you have to be this anal about choosing defensive ammo? Honestly, probably not. In fact, you’ll probably be just fine with any premium jacketed hollowpoint,  provided you can hit with it and control it. But I’m a detail guy. So there’s the details as I see them – use them as you see fit.

cheap ammo

11 thoughts on “Choosing Defensive Carry Ammunition”

  1. Justin,
    I enjoy your articles. It’s nice to know others are hooked on revolvers and your information is interesting and useful.
    Thanks for creating this blog!


  2. I really like that you included the contraindications section. A lot of articles mention to stay away from gimmick ammo, but the fact that such ammos keep being produced (and sold) implies that some folks need more info on what is a gimmick. I think you did a good job of addressing a pretty diverse category.

    1. Thank you! Really that was how this whole thing started – with me watching too many YouTube videos about the G2 R.I.P…

  3. Hey Justin, good read my friend.

    First off let me respond to the “light hit” thing. I have seen this enough times to cause me to do some research. Some time back I took one of my J Frames and installed an extended length firing pin (Brownells part # 206-000-010WB ). I tried it out and thought i noticed some extra recoil that was not there previously. I am qualified to state such since I probably have 35K + rounds through this gun. I set up the chrony only to find my suspicions verified. Increased velocity was a by-product of a more intense primer strike, thus throwing a greater spark, changing the burn rate of the powder in that hand load. A tangential point of interest,,, I believe it is Powers Custom that I bought extended “nose cones” (AKA firing pin) for older revolvers where the firing pin was attached directly to the hammer by means of a rivet.

    At this point in time ALL of my Js have extended firing pins and I have had NO issues. FYI the extended length firing pin increase penetration into the typical primer by .015″.

    In my opinion,,, one lowly light hit isn’t a trend. Could have been dirt holding that cartridge rearward just enough to allow it to “slide forward” upon firing pin impact. I don’t know,,, I wasn’t there,,, and Internet gun-smithing is NOT one of my specialties.

    Next,,, ammo choice. Man a guy can get totally wrapped around the axle on this one. That bullet does this and this bullet does that. What does it all translate into? Not much from where I sit.

    Ballistic data means this bullet did such & such fired from this gun, on this day, into X test media. Unfortunately that test media has no mindset,,, no human emotions and really can’t develop super human strength due to narcotics. The zeal of a typical jihadist may be enough to keep him on his feet and comin at ya like a freight train. YMMV.

    I tend to place my emphasis upon shot placement. Those of us who carry short barrel snubbies will typically not gain enough velocity to encourage a hollow point to open anyways due to such short “dwell time” we experience an incomplete powder burn.

    The first 5 rounds in my snub are hand-loaded by me and consist of a true HARD-CAST DEWC bullet. I am looking for penetration. The next rounds in my speed loader will be a SWAGED (AKA pure lead, meaning SOFT) 158 grain LSWCHP that I again, hand-load. I do this because trying to rapidly load a DEWC from a speed loader into a cylinder is TOUGH.

    My ending thoughts on ammo selection. Marketing slickery will continue to release “new & improved” better stuff we simply have to have if we are to survive. KYBOSH!!! I’ll stick with shot placement.

    We tend to have more faith in tangibles,,, something we can touch & hold. I’ll put my faith in skills. Shot placement.

    Be well my friend, and enjoy this Memorial Day weekend.

  4. Excellent article! As one who continues to carry a S&W Model 66 with a 2.5″ bbl for protection despite the overwhelming popularity of the semi-auto (and yes, i own a 9mm pistol), the information you provide is not only extremely welcome but also very useful, practical, and timely. Thank you for providing good, solid information about wheelguns and wheelgun ammo that many of us still use to keep us safe. Keep up the great work!

    1. T.L., we’re glad to have you here, Sir! That Model 66 is a wonderful choice. Don’t leave it laying around unattended, or Justin might find a way to sneak it home in his range bag! Thanks for writing and stay tuned for more good stuff here on RevolverGuy.

  5. I carry a small Ruger 357 pocket revolver but my favorite Hornady 125 gr. cartridge feels a little hot for me. Is there a round besides the older 110 gr. Winchester hollow point that reduces recoil without suffering loss of stopping power in the Ruger pocket gun? I generally tolerate recoil in heavy caliber handguns but the new pocket Ruger seems to need the grip improved to reduce felt recoil. I put good rubber grips on my SP-101 3 inch barrel gun because the sharp edges at the back of the trigger housing were a problem but now there is no problem and the revolver is comfortable to shoot with any 357 load, even Bear Loads. I am still a great shooter at the age of 81, 82 soon.

    1. Hello Sir! Thanks for writing in! It’s not clear to me if you’re experiencing problems with .357 Magnum loads in those bullet weights, or if you’re discussing .38 Special, but I think you’re talking about the Magnums. The obvious solution (if it’s .357 Magnum) would be to switch to .38 Special +P loads. I know that the power loss might concern you, but I think it would be far better to carry ammunition that allows you to control the recoil effectively and reduce the recovery time in between shots fired. If that means selecting a less powerful cartridge, then I think that’s a good trade off, and I wouldn’t fret about it. The most important thing is to put rounds on target in critical areas as quickly as possible, and the .38 +P can do this for you.

      If you’re adamant about staying with the .357 Magnum, you might look at the Remington Golden Saber 125 grain. This is a medium-velocity load that might be more tolerable than the Hornady load, but I suspect the difference won’t be significant enough to solve your problem. Same for the Speer Gold Dot Short Barrel 135 grain load that Justin favors.

      Some excellent .38 +P loads to consider would be the Speer Gold Dot 135 grain, Winchester PDX1 (or Ranger SXT) 130 grain, or the new Federal HST 130 grain. These loads seem to perform well in testing, while staying closer to point of aim than many of the 110 grain loads.

      Once again, thanks for writing in!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *